…and no, there will be no apologies for this terrible, terrible pun!

Yes, this is a blurb all about nails! It’s a topic that has popped up frequently over the past few weeks. Oftentimes a pain (literally) for pet owners as well as their dogs, nail health is an essential part of a dog’s well-being.
Dog nails are set different from those of a human. It’s easiest to think of a canine foot as having cleats, necessary for traction and digging into the earth. Think of the steadier footing human athletes can achieve just for swapping out shoes – dog feet are naturally designed that way. When not properly worn down from daily use, those “cleats” will continue to grow until they pose a problem. Dogs may shift their weight in order to correct their posture when nails are overgrown. This can put undue stress on joints, ligaments, and can even change their structure if left unattended for a long time!
Nail length isn’t the only thing that can affect a dog’s foot. Inside each nail is a blood-filled vessel called the quick. When the dog is active, the quick is relatively short, supplying the nail with necessary nutrients. If the nail is allowed to grow, the quick may extend into the nail bed, therefore preventing the nail to be worn down to a more comfortable length without causing bleeding and/or pain. Experts who weigh in compare damage to the quick to be anything from a mild sensation to the equivalent of a stubbed toe – and no two dogs feel it quite the same way.
So what’s the best way to keep those tootsies healthy? Regular walking on hard surfaces (asphalt, concrete, etc.) will keep nails at a manageable length. Regular usage prevents them from growing too long. Similar things can be observed in humans as well. If you use your index fingers to type, a process dubbed “chicken pecking”, I’m looking at you! Observe your index fingers over the next few weeks. Do they seem to grow a little slower than your other fingernails? Yep, that constant usage wears them down!
A good nail trim will be necessary at some point, even if you and your dog are very active. Dogs tend to wear their nails into some VERY sharp points, comparable to ninja daggers! Even if they’re not long, they hurt! You don’t want your dog jumping up on you, your neighbor’s kids, grandma, not even other dogs. It’s too bad they don’t realize the damage they can do with those little shanks, they’re just happy to socialize!
What’s the best way to trim a dog’s nails? If you have a very patient pooch, you can try it at home. Make sure that both you and your dog are comfortable, as any apprehension on either side can make for a miserable situation. Make sure you have a pair of clippers that are appropriate for your dog’s size. You wouldn’t want to use a pair that are intended for a Great Dane on teeny Chihuahua toes. Typically, the quick is found before the curve of the nail. Try to keep some distance between your clippers and the nail curve. Some dogs prefer not to have their feet lifted off the ground at all. Others don’t mind a slight lift for support. Never lift the foot higher than the dog’s natural range of motion; holding a dog’s foot too high is the human equivalent of pulling someone’s arm behind their back until they scream “Uncle”!
There is no shame in admitting defeat (get it?? De feet! Never mind…) if your dog simply won’t let you touch their toes. Think about it. Dogs use their feet as their mode of transportation, and many dogs (terriers, you know who you are!) view them as important digging tools. I only trust a handful of people to sharpen my shears and keep clippers running smooth – your dog isn’t all that different. That’s where we groomers come in! Nail clipping and filing is a day-in-the-life kind of thing for us. We see hundreds of nails over the course of the work week, have a multitude of tools at our disposal, and many of us have learned several different effective yet gentle holding positions. If your dog tolerates having me touch their feet, that’s a good day in my book!
Some dogs, for a variety of reasons, simply can’t tolerate nail trimmings. My recommendation is either to have them done under veterinary monitoring, or teach the dog to dig on an emery board, which will help to wear them down naturally. Place a treat behind the board and watch them dig, dig, dig, without even realizing they are getting a manicure!
Here’s a few more tips for at-home nail care…
- Try to find a time of day that works for you and your dog. Perhaps after you’ve had a really rigorous play session, when they’re a little more tired and (perhaps) less likely to wiggle.
- Have treats available – the really good ones! Your dog won’t understand when you say “You’ll be more comfortable,” but may respond to “If you do this I’ll give you something delicious”!
- Figure out how much your dog can tolerate at any one time. Doing one paw at a time and spacing the sessions out reduces built-up tension.
- Remember to breathe! Your dog will sense it if you’re suddenly tense and will become anxious themselves: “Why are they suddenly so stiff? Something must be wrong!”
- A quicked nail is not the end of the world. There are many ways to help to control any bleeding. Styptic powder is usually recommended, however it does burn, and dogs have different pain tolerances. Consider a natural alternative, but be prepared to apply a little extra pressure to the nail.
- If your dog gets blood on the furniture, carpet, etc., an oxy-based cleaner will clean it well and prevent stains, provided the spot is tended to quickly.
- A short nail may reopen based on your dog’s natural movement. If none of the aforementioned clotting items are available to you, corn starch (use as other powders) or bar soap (drag the nail across it) can help the nail to re-clot.
On that note, I usually do not mention a quicked nail unless it poses a problem, such as in the case of a senior dog, or a nail that took longer than average to clot. Nails are a part of my prep work, which I do at the beginning of every grooming session. Should it happen, quicked nails are packed with powder and then rinsed in the bath. I monitor them for the rest of the grooming session and if I suspect it may re-open, I will send the dog home with a small bag of clotting powder.
With some time, patience, understanding, and a little help from friends, your dog’s feet will be ready to take them – and you – on new adventures!